Picture Project- Hunger

Due on Flikr on the 24th November

Firstly when we got this theme it made me think that Hunger will mean something different to everyone- like any theme would. To me it made me think of a few things and one image that came to mind was this:

Photograph by Kevin Carter

I think this image would have a dramatic effect on most people, it certainly brought a tear to my eye and really made me think about the situation. The fact that the Photographer killed himself 3 months after taking this just goes to show how harsh the reality of seeing something like this can be. I personally think that the guilt of taking a photograph and walking away from the situation would be enough to damage most people.

This photo shows another world, as far as we are concerned as even though it is just as real and important as our everyday experiences, it isnt something we are used to seeing.

Hunger to me means something different, and i wanted to try and express this through my final image.

When i showed my photo in our tutorial John said it may have been better in just black and white- i had shown part of the image- the food in colour. So i decided to use the better image on my Blog.

And here is a link to my Flikr site where i posted the original image and you can view the comments i recieved:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kathrynjefferson/4128814112/

Unit 1- Camera Lens Technique- Wide & Telephoto

3. Use both wide and telephoto lens' (or focal lengths) to make 2 photographs of the same object.

Wide angle and Telephoto Lenses offer a very different image, a wide angle lens for a DSLR Medium format camera such as my Canon 50D would be something like a 15mm, 24mm or 28mm lens. With a wide angle lens things appear further away than with a standard or Tele lens and the Angle of view is wider so you have more coverage, it exaggerates perspective.

A Telephoto lens for my camera would be something like a 85mm, 135mm or 200mm lens.
A Telephoto lens makes things appear bigger, gives less coverage and it flattens perspective, meaning this would perhaps be more appropriate for portraits than a wide angle lens.

For the wide and Telephoto shots i decided to use the studio and a controlled lighting setup.

I think that a good way to illustrate the difference between Wide and Telephoto is a Portrait, here are the shots i took:

F13, 1/200 Sec, ISO 100, handheld, edited in LR.

I have edited both images slightly in Lightroom by cropping them and desaturating them a little.

F13, 1/200 Sec, ISO 100, handheld, edited in LR.

This image literally appears flatter, although with some things that could be a bad thing, i think it works better when photographing people.

Unit 1- Camera Lens Technique- 2- Drop Focus

2. Make a photograph that employs the Drop-focus technique

When i started on this i first researched it on the internet and looked in books to try and learn what it was, i couldn't find it anywhere.

Andy explained in one of our studio sessions what drop focus was, it is a narrow band of focus on the subject/object when taking a macro/close up photograph.

The band of focus should be on the most appropriate part, in order to pick out necessary detail in the image.

When using the Macro tubes it takes away any control over the aperture and instead sets it to the widest aperture- lowest f number automatically.

I went into the studio with several flowers i had bought and set up the continuous fluorescent lights on either side of the product table, they were placed as close as possible to the flowers to give maximum light, looking back, they weren't the best choice of light. The main reason for this is that i already had limitations as i couldnt change the aperture due to the use of the Macro Rings and the Continuous lights do not have the option for changing the power so the only control i had over the exposure was the shutter speed and the ISO, which meant i was quite limited. On the plus side, the lights are useful for product photography as ythey don't generate as much heat as the other flash heads so wont melt chocolate or wilt flowers!

1/60, ISO 1000, handheld, un-edited.

The fluorescent light has really brought out the purple tone in this image.

1/80, ISO 1000, handheld, un-edited.

1/100 Sec, ISO 1000, handheld, un-edited.

1/100 Sec, ISO 1000, handheld, un-edited.

1/100 Sec, ISO 1000, handheld, un-edited.

Here you can see there is a band of focus going across the image diagonally this appropriately allows the darker purple tone to be in focus and the rest of the image is out of focus. This was done using all of the extension tubes at the same time so the flower was literally 2cm from the lens of my camera, this has given it quite an abstract effect as it is so close up unless in context with the other images you may wonder what it was.

1/100 Sec, ISO 500, handheld, un-edited.

1/100 Sec, ISO 500, handheld, un-edited.

Although this doesn't show a 'band' of focus it shows a very small part of the image in focus, the important part is in focus and everything around it has just disappeared into a colourful blur.

I like this image but think it could be a lot better with editing, which is the area in which i struggle the most!

This one has been edited in Photoshop. When i started the course i had never used Photoshop or Lightroom and although i now know how to work Lightroom with my eyes closed, i am still working out the basics in Photoshop. I have bought quite a few books and magazines and watched online tutorials on order to learn some new Photoshop skills. I like the Photoshop magazines as they show examples of what can be done along with step by step instructions of how to do it. I used one of them to create a sketch effect on a portrait and then i got thinking about how i could use this so tried out a few different effects and played around with the layers until i got an image i was happy with.

I am really happy with the final image, i think the editing has given it a painterly feel.

Unit 1- Camera Lens Technique- 1- Shallow Depth of Field

1. Make a photograph that emloys a shallow depth of field.

Depth of field is the amount of the scene that appears in focus in an image. A lens is able to focus precisely on a subject at one distance and the decrease in focus is gradual on either side of the focused distance.

It may be more effective in an image to have a shallow depth of field, this would mean that the subject is perhaps clearly focused and the background out of focus creating an exphasis only on the subject- this is useful in portrait photography.

It may also be desireable to have a large depth of field where most distances are in focus, this is particularly useful in landscape photography and would be achieved using the aperture settings on the camera, the f numbers control the aperture, and the larger the f number is, the smaller the aperture ring and the larger depth of field. The easiest way to remember this is probably, large DOF- large f number.

Image from Wikepedia

This is an example of a shallow depth of field using a low f number of 2.8, this creates emphasis on the main focal point, which is the cat.

Image from Wikepedia

This is an example of a large depth of field using an f number of F32. So here a lot more of the image is in focus, although for this particular subject, a shallow depth of field would probably work better.

I have a few examples of a shallow depth of field that have been produced throughout the Systems and Processes brief but i wanted to do something new for this. I booked the studio as i had a few things i needed to cover and here are my images.

F5.6, 1/320 Sec, ISO 100, handheld, edited in LR

Here as you can see there is a slightly darker band across the bottom of the image, i am pretty sure this is because my sync speed for my camera is between 1/60 and 1/250 and here i have used a faster shutter speed. This can however be edited out in Lightroom or Photoshop but there maybe some loss of detail because of this. Here all i have done is increased the exposure and cropped the image slightly.

F5.6, 1/320 Sec, ISO 100, handheld,edited in LR

I think this is a better example of a shallow depth of field, because the model is closer to the camera this increased the distance between her and the teddy bear, making it more out of focus than on the previous example.

Group Task- From Capture to Print

For the group task we were mixed with Group A, and all told to be on time at 10am as we would recieve a brief and have a set amount of time to produce a photograph in a group.

We recieved the brief and were given the following film titles to chose from:

• Breakfast at Tiffany's
• The Fountain
• Into the Wild
• Dead Man's Shoes
• Dog Day Afternoon
• Clockwork Orange
• Sunset Boulevard
• Three Colours Red
• Stand By Me
• The Thin Red Line
• Rear Window

We were told to put ourselves in groups of no more than three and then produce a photograph influenced by one of the films.

I was in a group with Faye and Ryan, quite quickly we decided we wanted to do Clockwork Orange, i suggested we printed a photograph so that we could keep this in mind when looking for our costume and thinking about lighting.

We found these two images and decided to recreate something similar:

We went into town and bought a hat, a white shirt and some false eyelashes then rushed back to the studio to dress our model- Ryan.

We used a continuous fluorescent light in the studio as this created quite a cold feel which we wanted.

Here are some of the images i took on my camera followed by the final image that we submitted.

This is the final image that we produced. We tweaked a few things in Photoshop but didn't do too much editing as we had magaged to capture the essence of what we wanted already.

Unit 1- Digital Darkroom- 1,2 and 3- Lightroom

Importing, Organising and Naming Files and Folders

For this part of the brief there are three things i need to do using Lightroom to demonstrate my understanding.

I will cover all three points on this post.

This is something that has become second nature to me in the last few months since i bought Lightroom it is all that i use, so in theory this should be fairly simple.

1. Demonstrate the action of importing, organising and naming files/folders in Lightroom or Aperture.

Firstly, i will be using Lightroom version 2 and it may vary slightly depending on the version that is used.
 I think the easiest way to demonstrate my understanding of this is to use screen prints and explain what i have done.


Importing


When importing in Lightroom there are a few ways to do it depending on whether you are importing from your camera or device, or another file on your computer.


To inport a file that is already on your computer you firstly need to make sure you are in the Library tab in Lightroom, then click on the Import tab like this:

When you click this it should bring up a box that looks something like this:

You can then click on the image you want to import and press choose, if you are importing more than one image then you can either;

 -Click the first image, then press and hold shift then click the last image, this will select all of the images then press choose.

-Press and hold ctrl and click on the individual images you want and press choose.

Once you have selected your image/s you will see a box like the one below.

If you were importing from a device you would have clicked File- then import from device and it would bring up the same screen as this:

You then have a number of options for the import;

- You can choose whether to copy or move the images- be careful if selecting -add photos to catalog without moving as this wont save them to Lightroom so if you delete them from your memory card you could then lose them.

-Below this you have the option to chose where the files are copied to- i save my files in a folder called Uni- Pictures- then i create a new folder within this with a name that suits my import.

Organising

Next there is a box called Organize, you have the option to organize your images by date etc

i find the date is the easiest way to do it so select this. The box is shown below inside the red circle.

You can also choose to import images from a particular date, so if the photos were taken on more than one date Lightroom will automatically separate these so if you untick a box it wont import the corresponding images.

-If you click the box underneath this that says backup to: you can chose to backup your files, i tick this box and then select to back the files up to my removable hard drive, this way i have a back up of my RAW files that is seperate from my laptop

Naming

You next have the option to name your files- this is useful because if you later need to search for photo from a particular shoot you can search for this name and all of the files with this name will come up, saving you time.

I choose custom name which then allows you to create your own name- this gives you maximum control and if you set the name yourself you are more likely to remember it.

There are other ways of giving your files a 'name'.

When in the Library tab of Lightroom on the right there is a section called quick develop, if you scroll down you will see the metadata, it looks like this:

You will see a box that says file name next to it, this is where you will see the name that you chose when you imported the file, if you want to change it then type a new one in this box.

You can also attach a label, to do this in batch you would select the images you want and go to this on the right of the screen, scroll down to labels and type in there one of your choosing, then click on sync metadata and this will apply it to all of the images in your selection.

Writing a Caption

2. Write a caption for at least 1 Photograph in your Lightroom or Aperture catalogue.

To write a caption in Lightroom you need to be in the Library tab in Lightroom.

Select the photo you want to write a caption for by clicking on it then go to the right hand side and you will see this box that says at the top Quick Develop, scroll down:

until just above the copyright box there is a box saying Caption, click inside the box and write a caption like this:

When you click off this screen it will automatically save the caption.

If you wanted to write a caption that was the same for a few photos you firstly need to select the ones you want to create a caption for, like this:

This shows the 8 images i have selected to write a caption for. Next i need to go to the Quick Develop box on the right and scroll down to the caption box then type in a new caption which i have done here:

Then i clicked on Sync Metadata which is at the bottom of the screen, it should bring up this box:

I made sure the tick box was ticked on the right hand side of my caption and then click Synchronize and this will apply the settings to all of the selected images.

Cool, Grey Balanced and Warm Photographs

3. Using the white balance slider in Lightroom or Aperture, produce 1 cool, 1 grey balanced and 1 warm version of one of your photographs.

Firstly you need to open the photograph you want to use by clicking on it then clicking on the Develop tab.

This should being up a screen something like this:

I know how to use the slider to produce warm and cool images in Lightroom but i have never used it to produce a 'grey balanced' image before so decided i would do this first.

I wasn't entirely sure how to do this but i remembered reading something about this in the Raw Workflow book on our reading list so read the relevant pages to refresh my memory.

This image hasn't been edited, i wanted to use an import straight from my camera as

it will be easier to demonstrate.

First i clicked on the White Balance Selector shown here:

When you move this tool over the image you will see a box appear, you can see it below, i have drawn around this in red so you can see it. Also, when moving the tool over the image the preview screen changes- on the left side of the screen to show you what the image will look like.

To get grey balanced or neutral grey photo i clicked on a neutral area- this is an area that is either neutral grey or contains the same amount of Red, Green and Blue.

You can see on the bottom of the grid that comes up, the amounts of Red, Green and Blue that are in the area where the selector is.

So, i selected an area that contained an even amount of each colour which was the shadowed area just in between the models wrists.

This is my Grey Balanced photograph.

Now to produce a Cool version i just dragged the slider to the left:

Here is my Cool photo:

To produce the warm Version i dragged the slider to the right:

Here is my warm photo:

Unit 1- Location Photography- 1- Different Light Sources

Objects lit by Fluorescent, incandescent, sodium, and halogen/tungsten

For this part of the brief i had to produce photographs for each type of lighting. Although it says objects, we were told in the assingnment briefing that they can be people, the main thing here is about the effects of the different light sources rather than what we photograph.

1. Find and photograph an object lit by the following light sources;

Fluorescent, incandescent, sodium (street light) and halogen/tungsten (site lamp/work lamp)

Each light source has quite different qualities and will have a different effect on my photographs.

Fluorescent

Firstly i needed to research this in order to know how to photograph it and what it might be appropriate for as far as a subject was concerned.

According to Wikepedia Fluorescence is:

"the emission of visible light by a substance that has absorbed light of a different wavelength"

and a fluorescent light is:

"A fluorescent lamp or fluorescent tube is a gas-discharge lamp that uses electricity to excite mercury vapor. The excited mercury atoms produce short-wave ultraviolet light that then causes a phosphor to fluoresce, producing visible light. A fluorescent lamp converts electrical power into useful light more efficiently than an incandescent lamp".

Photo by Christian Taube taken from wikepedia

This shows various types of fluorescent lights.

Fluorescent tubes are sometimes used in studios for Black and White Photography, although they dont always produce the most accurate results there are also more modern and portable versions of the tubes which are hand torches that use LED units, because they are small and portable they can be useful for small set-ups.

For my flourescent photos i decided to use the continuous lights in the studio, i had a few attempts at this but not always deliberately. For the group task we did, i thought it would be good to use the continuous lights as we wanted quite a cold feel and also didnt want to use flash as this would give a burst of light, we needed, quite shadowed areas to make it work.

Here are a few examples of the photos i took, (both myself and Faye took photos with our own cameras whilst Ryan modelled for us)

F5.6, 1/60 Sec,ISO 640, handheld, un-edited.

This one was shot with the continuous lights in the studio and you can tell i haven't edited the white balance on this one as i wanted to show what the Fluorescent looked like without editing. I think it worked really well for what we were doing as it gave us more control over the light, because it was continuous we could see it as we were framing up the shot, unlike with flash, as until it fires and you check the image on your LCD screen you can't really see the effect.

The downside to using these continuous lights is that they aren't very bright and you can't adjust the power, so you have to use fairly slow shutter speeds and a higher ISO than i would usually like to use. When photographing people it is un-practical in most situations to use a slow shutter speed as they can't keep still for long you are bound to get some motion blur.

This image is under-exposed but that is what we wanted, the theme we chose (if you cant tell) was clockwork orange, for more on this see my post on the group task.

F5.6, 1/50 Sec, ISO 1000, handheld, un-edited.

Here is another example of the same setup but using different settings here to try to get more exposure and give detail to the left side as this was where the false eyelashes were (which was a big part of the photo).

On this one though i have used the slider in Lightroom to warm it up a little, i wanted to experiment with the various white balances to demonstrate that even when you take a photo with Fluorescent which has a very cold feel to it you can very easily warm this up in post production. It is the other qualities of the light that remain.

I also booked the studio and attempted some macro shots for my objects brief, i was using flowers for this and thought i would try to use the continuous fluorescent lights for this as not only would this be better as the heat of a flash would damage the flowers, but also i thought given the colour of the flowers fluorescent would compliment and maybe enhance the images.

This reference photo shows the setup i used

F7.1, 1/125 Sec, ISO 200, handheld, unedited.

This was taken with macro tubes attached to my lens, although this is under exposed so here is a better example:

F5.6, 1/80 Sec, ISO 1000, handheld, un-edited.

When using macro rings the aperture was automatically set to the widest and i was unable to  control this myself, which is certainly less than ideal when shooting anything, but i was able to set the shutter speed and ISO appropriately in order to still get a good shot.

I really like the effect of the fluorescent light with this flower, it really brings out the colour.

Also as i read that fluorescent is good for black and white photography i wanted to convert one of my images to B&W to see what this looks like.

F5.6, 1/80 Sec, ISO 1000, handheld, un-edited.

I really like this in Black and White, i think you can tell looking at it what light i used- or maybe thats just because i know?!

F5.6, 1/125 Sec, ISO 1000, handheld, unedited.

With this image you can't tell as much that it was taken with fluorescent lighting because of the tones in the flower, i think that it is exaggerated in the previous shot beacuse of the blue- purple tones and fluorescent just works with this.

Incandescent

I have here researched incandescent although i already knew roughly what it was i wanted a more technical explanation for it.

I found this on Wikepedia:

"The incandescent light bulb, incandescent lamp or incandescent light globe is a source of electric light that works by incandescence (a general term for heat-driven light emissions which includes the simple case of black body radiation). An electric current passes through a thin filament, heating it until it produces light. The enclosing glass bulb prevents the oxygen in air from reaching the hot filament, which otherwise would be destroyed rapidly by oxidation. Incandescent bulbs are also sometimes called electric lamps, a term also applied to the original arc lamps".

Im sure i have mentioned before that i am not that keen on using Wikepedia but it is very convenient as almost everything comes up on there, but where possible i check this information on another site too.

Picture taken from Wikepedia

An incandescent light is most commonly used in the home and gives off a yellow-ish light which has quite a warm feel to it.

John has encouraged us where possible to try to produce photos in our picture projects that we can use for one of the brief's as this saves us doing twice the work, i didnt really want to do this as i felt a bit like it was cheating and would make me produce less work, but for the project- reflection i ended up producing a photograph using incandescent lighting so thought i would use this.

My original idea was an image of someone reflecting, a man looking at his hands looking guilty. Then, i dont know if it was because it was around the time of haloween or because my imagination went wild, i decided i wanted a horror photo and something depicted a man that has just murdered someone- or at least drawn blood!

For my photo i used a summerhouse, there was no light in there apart from an up-lit lamp and i couldnt use that as it wasn't easy to move. But, i had taken a lamp with me from my bedroom, it had a spotlight bulb in it so it was quite diectional which is what i wanted, i decided to light him from underneath as i remembered a photograph i saw that Jill Greenberg did of John McCain where she had lit him from underneath and the lighting alone gave him a very sinister and monster-like feel which is exactly what i was going for.

Here is the photo:

Photograph by Jill Greenberg

F4, 1/25 Sec, ISO 640, handheld, un-edited.

This was using directional lighting from underneath, but i didn't like the photo, the light was to close to the model and too obvious.

I put the light on top of a cupboard and pointed it directly at the models face. It was by chance that whilst i was setting up my tripod i noticed the reflection in the TV and as the theme was reflection i thought this was perfect. I got him to keep turning the knife until it reflected the light and almost glowed.

F4.5, 1/3 Sec, ISO 640, tripod, edited in LR.

I have edited this in Lightroom by increasing the blacks so that the shadows were darker, i think this created a more sinister feel to it as often the appeal with a photograph isn't what you can see but what you can't see.

This is the same photo as above but has been edited differently in Lightroom, i added an aged photo preset then i increased the blacks, also i didnt export this with a watermark as the detail of the image goes right to the edges i felt the watermark got in the way.

I have done a seperate post on my reflection theme so please see this post for more detail and examples.

Sodium

Sodium lights are  most commonly street lights and produce an Orange coloured light.

When i looked it up on Wikepedia i found this explanation:

"A Sodium vapor lamp is a gas discharge lamp which uses sodium in an excited state to produce light. There are two varieties of such lamps: low pressure and high pressure. Because sodium vapor lamps cause less light pollution than mercury-vapor lamps, many cities that have large astronomical observatories employ them".

Firstly i decided to take some photos under sodium lights as part of my research, this was easier as street lights are very accessable.

F4, 1/10 Sec, ISO 1600, handheld, un-edited.

This is just outside my house, it was very dark and the Sodium street light was the only source of light, i had to use a slow shutter speed and the widest aperture, along with a high ISO to get this image, given the slow shutter speed and the fact it was handheld i am surprised it isn't blurry.

F5.6, 1/5 Sec, ISO 400, handheld, un-edited.

This is just another example of the sodium lighting, this image is a lot darker because i have used a faster shutter speed but this is just an example of the lighting so it isnt that important at this stage.

F5.6, 1/2 Sec, ISO 1600, handheld, un-edited.

F5.6, 0.6 Sec, ISO 1600, handheld, un-edited.

F5.6, 0.6 Sec, ISO 1600, handheld, un-edited.

This photo is of raindrops on a silver car, because the sodium street light is the only form of lighting it gives the image an orange and warm tinge.

More Examples of Sodium Lighting

I went to London and as i got off the coach i took this photo, i was in a rush so wasn't thinking about the composition, i just saw the lighting and took a quick shot.

F5, 1/50 Sec, ISO 1000, handheld, un-edited.

F4, 1/30 Sec, ISO 1000, handheld, un-edited.

Whilst in London i was walking around and i saw this tunnel across the road so decided to take a few photos, i wasn't sure why i liked it until afterwards when i thought about some of the things i like to photograph, i think it was the apparent age of the tunnel that attracted me, it was quite rustic and the sodium lights only added to it, plus it was perfect for part of my brief.

F5.6, 1/60 Sec, ISO 1600, handheld, edited in LR.

F5.6, 1/60 Sec, ISO 1600, handheld, edited in LR.

F5.6, 1/60 Sec, ISO 1600, handheld, edited in LR.

Here i have used the Adjustment brush to decrease the exposure at the end of the tunnel and make it appear dark, i did like the idea of light at the end of the tunnel but because the people are relaxed as they are walking toward the end i dont think this works. If they were running toward the end of the tunnel and the light it could appear that they were running from somehting in the tunnel.

Instead i thought that the black at the end of the tunnel worked better as it made it look more sinister.

When i see a tunnel like this i cant help but feel a little nostalgic because of its age and it felt a bit creepy to be in there also, another thing that perhaps adds to this is the fact that it is very close to the London Dungeons, this to me adds to the sinister feel.

I have also de-saturated it very slightly to reduce the orange tinge, this made it appear more 'real'. I then applied a very subtle vignette but didnt want this to be visible, just enough to darken the edges.

Halogen/Tungsten

I think Halogen/tungsten is possibly the most difficult light source to cover as it is the least accesible.

I researched it and found this definition:

"A halogen lamp is an incandescent lamp in which a tungsten filament is sealed into a compact transparent envelope filled with an inert gas and a small amount of halogen such as iodine or bromine".

Here is a link to the Wikepedia page i found this

http://wikimediafoundation.org/wiki/Global_Support/uk?utm_source=2009_Notice43&utm_medium=sitenotice&utm_campaign=fundraiser2009&target=Support_Wikipedia2

I have used Halogen/tungsten lighting before, in the studio with a model i used natural light from the skylight and a work lamp lied on the floor next to the model all of the images have been very slightly warmed up in Lighroom but that is the only editing i did.

These were taken at the beginning of my course and at which point i was only just getting used to my camera so there are a few things noticable that could have been better, such as the slow shutter speed- i should have used a tripod with speeds this slow, and the F number could have gone down to 5.6- the lowest on the lens i had, this would have allowed me more light and i could have used a faster shutter speed instead.

Here are the best 3 whilst using this light source:

F6.3, 1/25, ISO 500, handheld, edited in LR.

F6.3, 1/25, ISO 500, handheld, edited in LR.

F6.3, 1/25, ISO 500, handheld, edited in LR.

I really like these images, it was the first time i had ever photographed a proper model in the studio before and it gave me more confidence in working with people as something i previously struggled with was giving direction to people when i was taking their photograph, i think now i am more confident i know what looks good i find it easier to direct someone, although i know there is still a lot to learn!

It felt a bit like a cheat to just use photos i had already taken, especially because when i took them i didn't have the brief in mind at all.

So i decided to try to produce some more photos in the studio using the Halogen/tungsten worklamps.

I was doing a shoot anyway for another part of my brief so decided i would incorporate this.

I knew that it would be quite dark and i would have to use really slow shutter speeds or high ISO's if i used just the lamps- they weren't very bright, and I quite liked the way that the light worked with the natural light in the previous shots.

So i got to the studio early, as it goes dark early in the afternoon at this time of year, and i used the skylight for the natural light and placed my model/s underneath this with the lamps, one at either side.

F5.6, 1/80 Sec, ISO 800, handheld, un-edited.

This has just been cropped in LR and i have set the white balance to daylight to show the light as it was as much as possible.

F5.6, 1/80 Sec, ISO 800, handheld, un-edited.

Here is another example and again i have set the White Balance to Daylight.

F5.6, 1/80 Sec, ISO 800, handheld, un-edited.

Here i have changed the white balance to Tungsten, as you can see it has made the image very blue.

F5.6, 1/80 Sec, ISO 800, handheld, edited.

Here i used the slider in Lightroom to warm up the image. 

F5.6, 1/80 Sec, ISO 800, handheld, edited.

This is Black and White version and i have reduced the clarity to give it a more dreamy feel, i am happy with this although i appreciate it doesn't necessarily show of the lighting i have used which is why i have shown earlier examples.

Comparisons

I didn't feel it was obvious enough to show examples of all 4 light sources like this as they have each had different treatment in post production so it is difficult (in my opinion) to clearly see the difference between the light sources.

Of course, there is the obvious colour of each light source- sodium appears orange and Incandescent appears yellow for example. But there are other charachteristics that each light source has so i thought i would take 4 photos- one from each and set the white balance to daylight on them all, then show them along side each other.

Fluorescent- Daylight balanced

Incandescent- Daylight balanced

Sodium- Daylight balanced

Halogen/Tungsten- Daylight balanced

Here it is obvious, the difference between each one- mainly the colour. But this creates a different atmosphere in each image.

I think a better way to compare each light would be to use a small object and keep this the same through the 4 lights and compare them, it is harder to compare when using a different object/model each time.